Fez. Madrasa Bou Inania. Invaluable Beauty / Bezcenne piękno

Sultan Abou Inan Faris (1351-58) supposedly threw out the accounts after the madrasa had been built claiming that “such beauty cannot be calculated”. Himself, he was recognized as a great lover of culture and art. Though his reign lasted only for 7 years before he got suffocated by one of his wazirs, he left us one of the grandest treasures of the world of Islam. … Continue reading Fez. Madrasa Bou Inania. Invaluable Beauty / Bezcenne piękno

Fez. Tanneries, a Smelly Business / Garbarnie, śmierdzący interes

There is absolutely nothing that could prepare you for the stench coming from the tanneries in Fez. Neither will the leaf of fresh mint that’s slipped in front of your nose by the ironically smiling guides. At times, it feels like the only way of effectively dealing with the smell is to… stop breathing. An additional side effect of the visit is lack of appetite which … Continue reading Fez. Tanneries, a Smelly Business / Garbarnie, śmierdzący interes

Fez. Ghosts of Marinid Dynasty / Duchy dynastii Marynidów

Gazing at Fas al-Bali, the old quarter of Fez we have not noticed a little boy. He walked up stealthily, stood next to us and took off his cap  wiping off sweat from his forehead. “Fez…” he murmured, focusing his look on the minaret tops visible in the distance. “Un Dirham!” he added quickly, assuming his role of a guide was fulfilled. Wpatrzeni w Fas … Continue reading Fez. Ghosts of Marinid Dynasty / Duchy dynastii Marynidów

Fez. Seven Lives of Cats / Kocie siedem żyć

When the first muezzin’s call to prayers was heard Muezza was still sleeping inside a sleeve of his master’s robe. A hard day was awaiting him, while he had big plans. He intended to sleep until noon, then eat a piece of meat and kip down again. At this time, the master needed his robe since he was going for the morning prayer. However instead … Continue reading Fez. Seven Lives of Cats / Kocie siedem żyć